Key takeaways
- An inspection is a visual review of the major systems and structure, not a warranty or a code check.
- Attend if you can. Seeing the problems in person is worth more than any photo.
- Read the summary first, then the details, then ask questions.
- Radon, mold and other specialty tests are add-ons, so ask for them before the visit.
- Use the report to negotiate, plan repairs and budget for the future.
What is a home inspection?
A home inspection is a professional, visual evaluation of a house at a moment in time. I walk the property, open what can safely be opened, test what can safely be tested, and document the condition of the major systems and components.
The result is a photo-documented report. It tells you what is in good shape, what is wearing out, and what needs attention now. It is the best single tool a buyer has for understanding the house before signing.
My background is in construction, and I am a Certified Master Inspector. I work for the person who hired me, not for the agent or the seller. You can read more about how that works on the home inspection page.
What gets inspected?
A full residential inspection covers the parts of the house that keep it standing, dry, safe and comfortable.
- Structure: foundation, framing where visible, floors, walls and ceilings.
- Roof: covering, flashing, penetrations, gutters and drainage.
- Exterior: siding, trim, porches, decks, windows, doors and the way the lot slopes toward or away from the house.
- Plumbing: supply and drain lines, fixtures, water heater and visible leaks.
- Electrical: service panel, wiring that can be seen, outlets, switches and safety devices.
- Heating and cooling: furnace or boiler, air conditioning, distribution and controls.
- Insulation and ventilation: attic, crawlspace and moisture control.
- Interior: stairs, railings, windows, doors, floors and signs of past water.
What is not covered?
Being honest about limits is part of the job. A standard inspection does not include opening walls, moving furniture, digging, or predicting how long a system will last. It also does not look at things I cannot reach or see safely.
Some topics need their own specialist or test:
- Radon gas, which needs a monitor in place over time.
- Mold and air quality, which may need sampling.
- Sewer lines, which may need a camera scope.
- Well water quality, septic systems, pools and outbuildings.
- Wood-destroying insects, asbestos and lead paint.
If you want any of these, tell me when you book so I can plan the visit. I can add radon and mold work at the same appointment.
Should I attend the inspection?
Yes, and I encourage it. You are welcome to follow me through the house and ask questions as we go. A stained ceiling, an old electrical panel or a cracked foundation wall makes a lot more sense when you are standing in front of it.
If you cannot be there, you can still call me with questions before or after closing. Bring your agent or a family member if you like. The report is written so that anyone can follow it.
How do I read the report?
Reports are photo-documented and delivered the same day or within 24 to 48 hours. Start with the summary, which separates the serious items from the routine ones.
Here is how I suggest sorting what you find:
- Safety issues: fix these first, such as electrical hazards or missing railings.
- Water issues: roof leaks, bad grading and plumbing leaks cause the most expensive damage over time.
- Major systems: furnace, water heater and roof near the end of their life.
- Maintenance items: small repairs that protect the house if handled soon.
Not every finding is a deal breaker. An older house will always have something on the list. What matters is whether the problems are understood and priced into your decision.
How do I use the results?
There are three common paths. You can ask the seller to repair specific items, ask for a credit, or accept the house as is with your eyes open. A clear report gives you the facts to choose.
When a finding points to something beyond my scope, such as a structural question or an old chimney, I will tell you which kind of specialist to call. I will not guess about what I cannot see.
Your purchase agreement sets the deadlines for inspections and responses, so schedule early. If your timeline is tight, ask about Saturday same-day inspections.
Questions before you book? Call 878-300-6621 or get a free estimate online.
What does a good inspector do differently?
The difference is in the details. A careful inspector goes into the attic and the crawlspace instead of looking from the hatch. They run the water, test the outlets, operate the furnace and check the way the lot drains, and they explain the findings in words you can follow.
Look for an inspector who is independent, insured and willing to let you attend. I am a Certified Master Inspector and an InterNACHI member, with CCPIA, IAC2 and MC/RC certifications, and I carry errors and omissions and general liability insurance. You can read more about my background on the about page.
Ask any inspector what the report looks like before you book. Mine is photo-documented, so every finding is tied to a picture, and it is written to be shared with your agent, contractor or attorney.
How long does it take and what should I do to prepare?
The time depends on the size, age and condition of the property and on any add-on services. A larger or older home takes longer than a small, newer one, and I do not rush it.
As a buyer, bring your questions and a notepad. Plan to ask about anything that looks unusual, including past repairs, the age of the roof and furnace, and how the basement behaves after heavy rain. Sellers can help the visit go smoothly too, and I wrote a separate guide on preparing your home for inspection.
Common questions
Does a home inspection include a pass or fail?
Can an inspector see inside walls?
Is radon or mold part of a standard inspection?
Ready to schedule?
Get your free estimate online, or call Will directly at 878-300-6621.